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It
was simply just one of those days. Exhausted from an overzealous play schedule
of mountain biking and hiking in Salida, Colo., we were at odds. He wanted to
take the macadam road more traveled and I was angling to hit the dirt for an
off-road odyssey.
His proposed path was simple and concrete; mine was
unknown and convoluted. Our destination was the Great Sand Dunes National Park
and Preserve - and we were just on the edge of too late in the day to tackle
something _ With only two (very different) ways to realize our destination, we
sped along Highway 50 from Salida and down Route 60 into Westcliffe with our
disparate views.
It was either female ingenuity or a prevailing sense of
adventure (or perhaps the effects of a pint at Poag Mahone's Irish Pub) that
won out, but after a satisfying stopover in the quaint and tidy little hamlet
of Westcliffe, we were off, again, barreling toward the dirt road turnoff to
Medano Pass.
After the signed turnoff, we wound for several miles on
well-maintained county roads that passed in and out of private property. The
real deal began with rocky, steep road that narrowed significantly and caused
us to kick it into 4WD. (It also caused me to relinquish my driver's seat to
the real off-road expert, my recently concrete-converted husband.)
The road shifted into a green tunnel flanked by lush
trees, and our progress was slowed by the mountain bikes projecting from the
roof. Soon, we rolled up onto a spot where signs marked Medano Pass (at 10,000
feet) and the route that appeared to bomb down into the Great Sand Dunes
National Park through the stark and beautiful Sangre de Cristo mountains.
Pointing our nose downward into the National Forest, we
rolled through open pastures, vast meadows and dense woods - and past private,
primitive campsites. Few people (or vehicles) dotted the landscape; we passed
only one gaggle of campers on the way down from the top - they had an arsenal
of sandboards attached to their trucks.
Medano Pass Road scoots around and through Medano Creek
the entire way down. On a hot summer day like ours, crossings are a welcome,
wet break - and fairly simple to maneuver. A mud hole along the way provides
unseen (but passable) challenges. In high water season, this 4WD road can prove
difficult for some vehicles and drivers. Our low-water route was simple, but
eroded banks and powerful currents in a different season could certainly up the
adrenaline factor here.
On Medano Pass Road, you'll get the most bang for your
buck in the fall, when the aspens are peaking, but this is a beautiful drive
most anytime the road is passable - it is typically closed by winter conditions
from approximately November through April. Late spring and early summer can be
challenging for stock vehicles as the water crossing on Medano Creek can reach
up to door height.
After crisscrossing Medano Creek countless times and
descending through thick trees that caused me to cringe every time wood whacked
a handlebar (I occasionally hopped out to guide our rides through the labyrinth
of branches), our tires spun onto sand. This was the first sign of the
spectacular scene of sand dunes that would soon unfold before us.
Not wasting any time, we dropped the tire pressure, and
pushed on. The road morphed into a rollercoaster of sorts that wound through
the lowlands of the Great Sand Dunes National Monument.
Twisting and turning around sandy corners with two-way
traffic potential is unnerving, but necessary nonetheless. We learned this the
hard way after a slow run through deep sand that had us out of the vehicle
again, lowering tire pressure and digging out.
Out of the trees and into the open, the great sand dunes
lay out before us. It is a spectacular sight to behold - these giant mounds of
pure white sand sitting serenely in front of a wall of jutting Fourteeners.
Wow.
After a heart-pounding jaunt and sunset photo session in
the dunes, we rolled back up Medano Pass Road to settle in at a campsite. A few
hundred yards up the road we are back in the woods, setting up the tent near
the campsite's bear box. And we both agree this time - this off-road drive was
well worth it.
Erinn Morgan is a Durango-based freelance writer whose work has appeared in many magazines, including National Geographic Adventure, Bike, Skiing, Muscle & Fitness and 5280.